Friday, May 25, 2007

Abel Tasman National Park Tramp, NZ

The two of us and our Ezy Cruza campervan (now known to us simply "The Cruza") took the three hour Interislander ferry from Wellington on the north island to Picton on the south island. Upon arrival and a quick bite to eat we headed straight for the beach town of Nelson. Nelson was an ideal spot for us to sort out our itinerary for Abel Tasman National Park. We went to the nearest i-spot (tourist guide spot found in every city and staffed with people who will help you book trips, provide you with weather details, help you find a campervan site, etc. etc. - NZ is the easiest place to travel!!!) and decided after talking with the DOC (department of Conservation) guide that we would spend two days exploring the park, the first day we would do a full day kayak trip and then camp for the night at a hut before hiking back the following day. We grabbed groceries in Nelson and then drove to Marahau (30 minutes north) for the night so that we would be ready for the 8:30 departure.

After waking up to a spectacular sunrise over the Tasman Bay we met up with our kayak group (two Austrians, one swiss, and Garreth our local NZ guide), jumped into our tandem kayak and headed out to sea (Brian - early rudder problems again much like Bar Harbor-you would have been proud). After about ten minutes of calm paddling the winds picked up drastically and our guide asked us to bring all 3 of our boats together (ours was the middle boat) to do a bit of sailing. He tied a sheet to the end of two paddles for the back right and left, had two people on the front right and left hold the other ends, we were tasked with holding all the boats together and as soon as the sail went up we were off! We started zipping ahead, cold water splashing everywhere - it was very cool. After 10 minutes the Austrians boat got loose and we almost lost them for good before one of them threw their paddle just in time to keep them from capsizing. We had to cross a section called 'The Mad Mile' and Matt was charged with sitting in the back and steering, while Jaci set the pace up front. This difficult section (6 foot waves) left us with soar arms but we somehow were able to negotiate all the rocks and waves ending up in Te Pukatea Bay (stunning) for lunch. We did some hiking from our lunch spot and then hit the water for a few more hours of kayaking were we were able to coem up close and personal with a group of fur seals sunning themselves on the rocks and playing in the water rigth off our boats. Eventually we made it all the way to Bark Bay and our hut where we would be sleeping for the night.

Bark Bay hut is typically where hikers of the Abel Tasman Coastal Track would sleep after their second night of hiking (or tramping in New Zealand). The entire track can be done in 3-5 days depending on your pace and desire to explore. The hut is impressive with a large living/cooking area and 2 sleeping rooms (bunk style - sleeps 40). About 100 feet off the beach (which vanishes at high tide) and the lagoon behind a long sand peninsula. It's also 14 miles from Marahau and we woul be hiking the full distance the next day. We enjoyed some dinner and great conversation around a "heater" with folks from the Czech Republic, Austria, Sweden, and a couple from Santa Cruz, CA (they accounted for the second and third Americans we have seen the entire trip! ). After a bit of sleep we headed out early on the track. In the high season, it is early to see how busy this track would be. the views of the beaches and outcropping rocks along the way are postcard photos in the waiting. But since we were tramping in the low-season, after leaving the hut, we saw no one for the first three hours of our hike enjoying the natural wonders around us and the pleasant, cool mountain air. The terrain is draped with NZ Silver Ferns and rock walls covered in glowing green moss. All streams are bridged but there are tidal crossings which can only be crossed within a few hours either side of low tide. Mistakenly, Matt pushed for us to cross about a half hour to early at the Torrent Bay Crossing and we came up on a "hidden river" which we had to wade through in bare feet. It was a bit cold and muddy but we survived. We lovedt he hike and incredibly finished in 5.5 hours and although tired we drove back to Nelson so that we could get a jump start on our drive over to the west coast of the south island in the morning. Everyday we wish we had more time to explore this incredible country.

Click HERE for more pics!

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